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Only 2 (well maybe 3)

There must be more than that

Ref M1 Garands not sure how many more will be available..

bnz41 wrote:Only 2 (well maybe 3)

There must be more than that

Ref M1 Garands not sure how many more will be available..

i need a house with a cellar soon (and i dont drink wine )

Just waiting to pick mine up so happy days!

Does anyone handload?

Where are you getting it from? Some who have bought ones recently say the action ie moving parts are not lubed or very little in the way of lube. Use grease mainly & not to much oil.
Watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sKUI-pzLbzA to lube.

This first to see how to take the wood off no need to go any further, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eq4wpB9MZ-4

I will reload when I have fired all the factory ammo and re use the brass.

Be careful when loading a 8 rounds in a clip you do not get Garand thumb, see correct way here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aIu-oQblB2s also look on youtube on how to load the clips.
When buying more end clips get original ones as repro new made do not work...
Hope this helps.

Hi, I have too few posts to reply directly
Thanks for all the info & links. I was vaguely aware of the Garand thumb but will hopefully remember when it comes to using the rifle.

Just a case of waiting now

Yes, greasing is definitely the way to go. Related, I originally tried oil on my M1 carbine but found the oil was just being thrown about and wouldn't last long at all. The original GI manual for M1 Garand's recommend the use of grease (and similar for M1 carbine) so I found a grease (link below) which is as similar as the original grease based on the description. A thin coating is all that's needed and it makes the action so much slicker. It doesn't get displaced as easily as oil and does last a long time.

I also have an urge for more straight pull rifles :)

If you're going to handload for this then you won't be able to only neck size the brass. With a bolt action rifle you manually put the bolt into battery by rotating the bolt handle, sometimes you feel resistance for neck sized cases and use a small amount of extra force to fully rotate the bolt. With a straight pull rifle, you simply release the bolt handle and you're relying on the rifle to chamber the round and put the bolt into battery. Therefore, for a straight pull rifle you will want to full length size your brass. You can do this in two ways:

1. Set the die up per instructions; or
2. If you have a tool to measure the case-head to shoulder datum position then you can set your die up such that the shoulder is pushed back between 0.003" to 0.005". Moving the shoulder back by this amount (assuming that full length sizing pushes the shoulder back >0.005") will improve your brass life due to less resizing, and you should get more reliable feeding in your rifle since there is a larger clearance between your case shoulder and the chamber shoulder (if that's the right name?). See the attached picture, which shows the same principle but is shown for neck clearance and length clearance.

If you're going with the shoulder bump approach, it would be wise to make up some dummy rounds first and check that the rifle feeds and goes into battery correctly before you make up any quantity of ammo. Nothing worse than making up a batch of 100 only to find that they don't chamber correctly.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-Line-CV- ... xyEilSVSQb

Thanks chaps, very useful info & appreciate the help, links & advice.
The rifle I am In the process of purchasing was one of the first in the UK so fingers X all goes according to plan.